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Day after day
of cloudless skies. The fierce sun sucks the moisture from the
landscape, baking the earth a dusty red, the withered grass as
brittle as straw. The Tarangire River has shriveled to a shadow
of its wet season self. But it is choked with wildlife. Thirsty
nomads have wandered hundreds of parched kilometers knowing that
here, always, there is water.
Herds of up to 300 elephants scratch the dry river bed for
underground streams, while migratory wildebeest, zebra, buffalo,
impala, gazelle, hartebeest and eland crowd the shrinking
lagoons. It's the greatest concentration of wildlife outside the
Serengeti ecosystem - a smorgasbord for predators – and the one
place in Tanzania where dry-country antelope such as the stately
fringe-eared oryx and peculiar long-necked gerenuk a regularly
observed.
During the rainy season, the seasonal visitors scatter over a
20,000 sq km (12,500 sq miles) range until they exhaust the
green plains and the river calls once more. But Tarangire's mobs
of elephant are easily encountered, wet or dry. The swamps,
tinged green year round, are the focus for 550 bird varieties,
the most breeding species in one habitat anywhere in the world.
On drier ground you find the Kori bustard, the heaviest flying
bird; the stocking-thighed ostrich, the world's largest bird;
and small parties of ground hornbills blustering like turkeys.
More ardent bird-lovers might keep an eye open for screeching
flocks of the dazzlingly colourful yellow-collared lovebird, and
the somewhat drabber rufous-tailed weaver and ashy starling –
all endemic to the dry savannah of north-central Tanzania.
Disused termite mounds are often frequented by colonies of the
endearing dwarf mongoose, and pairs of red-and-yellow barbet,
which draw attention to themselves by their loud, clockwork-like
duetting.
Tarangire's pythons climb trees, as do its lions and leopards,
lounging in the branches where the fruit of the sausage tree
disguises the twitch of a tail.
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